Lovin’ Some Dim Sum
Frank Bruni, from the New York Times, will have you begging for some dim sum (pictured from his article above) after reading this review of Chinatown Brasserie:
We can indulge two desires at once: to graze and to explore foreign territory, in this case Chinese. We can congratulate ourselves on the little portions, at least until we’re a half-hour into a gathering feast. Then we can congratulate ourselves instead on the amount of territory we’ve covered.
And we can have dumplings. What’s better than dumplings? What’s better than biting into something doughy to discover something meaty, or crashing through a bouncy casing and reaching a soft — maybe even juicy — core? Not a whole lot, especially not if those casings are as thin and pliant as they are at Chinatown Brasserie and those cores taste as clean and carefully put together as they do here.
Chinatown Brasserie, which opened about two months ago in the NoHo space that used to be Time Cafe, joins an increasingly populous contingent of restaurants that attempt to apply a sexy gloss to Chinese food (both the real thing and its American mutations) and try to restyle takeout favorites with better ingredients. Think of Mr. Chow Tribeca, if you can bear the thought, or Buddakan, if you can bear the meatpacking district.
Related Stories
POSTED IN: Frank Bruni, Misc. Foodie Stuff
0 opinions for Lovin’ Some Dim Sum
No one has left a comment yet. You know what this means, right? You could be first!
Have an opinion? Leave a comment: